The virgin peaks of Hindu Kush -3 – By: Rahmat Karim Baig
In this write up we shall discuss the virgin peaks around Terich Mer i.e . standing in the Atahk valley of Terich. When the British Indian authorities began to send selected Army officials to explore Hindu Kush within the borders of Chitral, they gave guide lines as what information was to be collected on priority basis as it was primarily an espionage attempt not just mountaineering and in the initial stage of this attempt they tried to reach Terich Mer from different directions- south, east, north and west. Those who attempted from the south found the south face easily but very dangerous to make to the peak but they were not misled. Their route was right but highly dangerous. Those who tried from the east missed the right route to it; those who tried from the north reached a highly congested area of peaks without any clue to the main summit so they were misguided badly for many years. They usually reached Istor- o- Nal and mistook it for Terich Mer and spent many years on this peak without success. From the west Terich Mer was not visible as from the north.
In this conglomeration of high peaks many smaller summits were scaled like Gulasht Zom group of peaks less than 7000m, Aspe Safid, Aspe Siah and many other minor peaks. The Gulasht Zom group has more than 6 peaks and comparatively easier to ascend. Aspe Safid is above 6800m and much more difficult for access as well as climbing but was summitted. All these are accessible from Terich Concordia, at the higher part of Upper Terich Glacier.
There is a section of peaks along the Lower Terich Glacier in the same valley but all of them are steep rocks with caps of ice on their top. These include Bai Pash Zom, Ghur Ghur Zom, North Terich Mer, Baby Terich Mer with a group of 4 other peaks around 6500m, Kono Zom and Lashore- all these are unclimbed to date because of the steep rock walls. The North Terich Mer was summitted by Kurt Diemberger- an Austrian climber who also scaled many other peaks above 7000m. Lashore ( 6100m) was attempted by Italians and Greeks but both attempts failed due to extreme rock condition at the higher 500m section. This is the story of the virgin peaks in the Atahk valley- all around Terch Mer, and in the next write up we shall discuss the virgin peaks standing in the Udren valley of Terich. In the south of Terich Mer there is another peak above 6000m and is unclimbed. Its glaciers fall into the Ovir gol but it is visible from Chitral town.
Prof. Rahmat Karim Baig